Sloan Peak, East Face. Jerry Fuller and I made the first climb of the east face, using a route near its south corner. The route begins just off the glacier at its highest point, then makes a rightward-climbing traverse on marvelous granitic rock. The first three pitches all involved interesting and sometimes difficult free climbing, requiring constant piton protection; two pitches of easier climbing completed the ascent. Though not a long climb, this ascent affords some of the best technical alpine rock climbing available on the western side of the Cascades.

Fred Beckey