American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mount Stuart, Direct West Wall

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Mount Stuart, Direct West Wall. We had often admired and looked at the prominent unclimbed triangular west wall, far below Mount Stuart’s granite summit. With powder snow being blown by heavy gusts and winter conditions, Don Cramer and I climbed out of a camp in the Ingalls Creek valley at three a.m. on May 30. Climbing the rock and snow couloir leading to the notch below the west ridge we passed by the planned route, not seeing it amidst the clouds and snow. Returning back down to the large cirque basin below the west wall, we started directly up the ice-covered granite. The verglas and hoarfrost made direct aid necessary on some pitches where it would not be required under other conditions. The route ascended onto the large ledge which runs diagonally to the west ridge, but it continued above on 5th and 6th class rock to below the summit where a scramble led to the final pyramid and a magnificent view down the ice-and-snow-covered north wall. The climb required 12 hours up, and then two hours glissading down Ulrich couloir to Base Camp. This was an interesting route on excellent granite and an enjoyable climb under near winter conditions.

Paul Myhre, unattached

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.