LIONEL TERRAY 1921-1965

Most of his public life is so well known through his book "The Conquerors of the Useless” that it would be pointless to repeat it here. Lionel was, to those who knew him well, a very vulnerable man in that he was, contrary to what is general belief, a very human and sensitive being. He was to many a great and dear friend and all those who paid him tribute before he was laid to rest in the Chamonix Cemetery, among them hardened mountain climbers, wept like small children. To the French climbing world, especially the younger generation, his absence represents an irreplacable loss, as he was the hero of their dreams, and could hold an audience breathless as no one ever has been able to.

Lionel has left us a great heritage, a real lesson of life. When forced with a choice of alternatives on a climb, he would always tackle the most difficult route, believing strongly that if one faces the hardest problems first and head-on, it has to be easier afterwards. In over 20 years of concentrated climbing he has proved to be right.

Life was not always easy for him, especially in Chamonix where he had to face up to his reputation continually. Often his friends would take him climbing outside the Mt. Blanc area, for there Lionel was another man.

He had just recently been able to resign himself to a less active life, but it did not come easy. Huntington was his last Official Expedition he was told, and he took it hard. Lately he stated quite often that his career would come to an end soon, as he was missing the drive he used to have. In the last chapter of his book, he wrote with certain apprehension "… and if truly no stone, no sérac, no crevasse lies somewhere in wait for me, the day will come when, old and tired I’ll find peace among the animals and the flowers.”

With some friends we went to get a large rock for his gravestone. The rock has nice routes for him to take beginners on, moderate aretes to climb with friends, and difficult series of overhangs which will test his utmost skill. In our hearts Lionel will keep climbing and roaming the mountain ranges of the world. It was his dream to never have to give it up.

Leo LeBon