Asia, Afghanistan, Koh-i- Langar, Wakhan

Publication Year: 1965.

Koh-i-Langar, Wakhan. An expedition of the Traunstein section of the Deutscher Alpenverein alone of the number who applied was given permission for this remote part of Afghanistan, which lies near the Russian, Chinese and Pakistani frontiers. The leader was Dietrich von Dobenek; other members were Karl Brenner, Otto Huber, Konrad Kirch (John Harlin’s companion on the Eiger), Karl Winkler, geologist Peter Mirwald and botanist Hans Roemer. After leaving Langar they moved up the Langar valley to Base Camp at 13,500 feet. There were two route-possibilities on Koh-i-Langar (23,166 feet). They preferred the one which led over the northwest spur of Peak 6170 (20,243 feet), which lies northeast of the main peak, over the summit of Peak 6170, down into the col, and up a long northeast ridge. After climbing a 16,000-foot peak on the western side of the valley for reconnaissance, they attacked the Koh-i-Langar. Camps were established in succeeding days at 17,225 feet and at 19,350 feet on the southwest of Peak 6170. They headed for the summit on July 6. The ridge ended in a kind of high plateau, out of which rose various summits. They all climbed one of 22,145 feet. Two days later Otto Huber climbed to the highest summit alone with a bivouac 200 feet below the top; he also reached the south summit. They did not attempt the other peak of 7000 meters, Koh-i-Skhawr, which was both difficult and dangerous. Instead, they explored the region to the east along the upper reaches of the Oxus (here called Ab-i-Panja and Ab-i-Wakhan). They trekked to within a day of the Chinese frontier before they paused to climb Koh-i-Bay Qara (c. 17,700 feet), the most northeasterly of the Wakhan Pamir.