American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Shakhaur, Roshgol Area

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

Shakhaur, Roshgol area. After their successful ascent of Momhil Sar, Rudolf Pischinger and Horst Schindelbacher joined fellow Austrians, Gerald Gruber, leader, and Reiner Göschl. Approaching via the Tirich and Tidren valleys, they climbed two new peaks and made a new route on the third during the last three weeks of August. Gruber and Pischinger made the first ascents of both Shakhaur (23,375 feet) on August 17 and Udren Zom (23,395 feet) on August 19. Schindelbacher and Göschl made a new route, the east ridge, of Nadir Shah (23,347 feet) on August 20, which was first climbed by Poles and French in 1962 from the Afghan side. Schindelbacher made a solo ascent, also by the north face of Udren Zom on August 22 when Göschl fell sick.

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