American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Momhil Sar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

Momhil Sar. Momhil Sar, the 24,090-foot peak which lies just west of Trivor, was climbed by an Austrian expedition from Styria. It was led by Hans Schell and included Rudolf Pischinger, Horst Schindelbacher, Leo Schlömmer and Rolf Widerhofer. After leaving Nagar on May 6, they reached Base Camp at 15,000 feet on the Gharesa Glacier four days later. They immediately attacked the approaches to the east, placing Camp I at 17,700 feet and Camp II at 19,350 feet. The weather was extremely bad and it was not until June 17 that Camp III was established at 21,300 feet below the col between Momhil Sar and Trivor. The next day they soon reached the col. (Thus far they followed the route of the successful British-American party on Trivor in 1960.) The east ridge above the col was too difficult without much route preparation and they had to return. Unfavorable weather continued but finally just after midnight on June 29 the whole party left Camp III, traversed up a steep, long ramp to the south ridge, which they reached early in the afternoon. They followed the ridge to the summit, getting there at 4:30. They had been out 22 hours by the time they returned to Camp III.

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