American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, North Barum Gol Valley, Hindu Kush

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

North Barum Gol Valley, Hindu Kush. During June and July five Americans, Stu and Barbara Krebs, Pat and Clarice Caywood and I, calling ourselves the ”1964 American Hindu Kush Expedition,” visited the North Barum Gol valley of the Hindu Kush Range in Chitral. We went by motor from Peshawar through Swat and Dir states to Chitral. We spent five days walking from Chitral Town to Base Camp at 12,800 feet on the edge of the North Barum Glacier, passing through Ghaghoszi, Barains and Barum. During the next five weeks we climbed five peaks over 17,000 feet, all probably first ascents. The first three ascents were made by all members by ascending directly to the ridge of the peaks on the right side of the lower part of the North Barum Glacier. The highest peak climbed was Kunotak (19,256 feet). Camp I was placed at the top of the first ice- fall of the glacier. Camp II at 17,400 feet was at the top of the second icefall on the upper part of the right branch of the North Barum Glacier. All five of us on July 9 climbed a snow gully to the ridge between the east peak of Tirich Mir and Kunotak and then followed the west ridge of Kunotak to the summit. On July 11 S. Krebs and P. Caywood climbed an 18,700-foot peak at the head of the North Barum Glacier. We re- connoitered the east peak of Tirich Mir to a height of 18,000 feet along a southeast spur from the same glacier. We met the Norwegians who climbed the east peak of Tirich Mir from the South Barum Glacier.

Gene F. White

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