American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Kagmara Group and Kanjiroba Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

Kagmara Group and Kanjiroba Himal. On our expedition to West Nepal, we were a party of five: John B. Tyson, leader; James Burnet, Dr. Robert Kendell, John Cole and I. We left Kathmandu towards the end of August and travelled via the Kali Gandaki to Tukuche. From there, crossing a series of high passes and visiting the villages of Chharkabhot, Tarapgaon and Ringmi, we entered the Garpung Khola, east of Jagdula Gorge. The area had been visited before by Tyson’s expedition in 1961 and by a ladies’ expedition in 1962, but there still remain large tracts of unexplored country. Our objectives were to extend the 1961 photo-theodolite survey to the Kagmara group and the northern Kanjiroba Himal and also to attempt peaks of the northern Kanjiroba group, including the highest discovered in 1961 and some 22,600 feet high. One approach to the peak seemed to be possibly from the south along the Jagdula Gorge, and while Tyson and Cole mapped the Kagmara group, Kendell, Burnet and I reached the point where the important eastern left-bank tributary draining the ranges to the north of Lha Shamma meets the main Jagdula stream. We felt this route was not practicable for laden coolies beyond this point. At this stage I had to leave the party, and returned by way of Jajarkot and Sallyana. The others moved round to the northwest of the group, travelling through Maharigaon and Wangri to the village of Dalphu which lies to the north of the River Langu. From Dalphu the highest mountain visible is Bhulu Lhasa and after penetrating the Langu Gorge eastwards from Dalphu and then striking southwards up a very steep tributary gorge they succeeded in climbing this peak on October 31. Its height has not yet been computed. From this summit, range upon range of "new” mountains were visible, including the highest mountain in the Kanjiroba Himal, which appeared practicable as a climbing proposition. Further mapping was done in this area before the party began the return journey, reaching Nepalganj at the end of November.

Trevor H. Braham, Himalayan Club

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