American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Langtrang Himal, Attempts and Ascents

Nepal, Langtrang Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 1965

Osaka City University Himalayan Expedition consisted of Takeo Suzuki, leader; T. Kondo, Y. Kadota, T. Kiyohara, A. Ban, K. Jokei and S. Sasaki. We tried to climb Langtrang Lirung (23,750 feet) from the south ridge and reached the height of 18,850 feet but gave up climbing more because of the steep ridge. We did not try to climb it by the Lirung Glacier. We made the first ascent of Urukinman (20,990 feet), which is located at the south part of the Langtrang Glacier (Tunga Glacier). Kiyohara, Ban, Jokei and a Sherpa climbed to the summit on May 5 from the south face. We also made the first ascent of Kyungka Peak (22,900 feet), which is located at the middle part of the Langtrang Glacier. Kondo, Sasaki and a Sherpa climbed to the summit on May 8 from the eastern glacier. [Editor's note: This peak is actually Pemthang Ri (Bemdang Rig), 6,150m, often called Morimoto Peak.]

– Tadeo Sazuki, Osaka City University

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