American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

Shisha Pangma. The Chinese claim that they have made the first ascent of Shisha Pangma or Gosainthan (26,291 feet), the 14th highest mountain in the world and the last of the unclimbed 8000ers. They state that they had previously reconnoitered to 23,500 feet. Then, early in 1964, a 195-man expedition was formed under the leadership of Hsu Ching. According to Chinese reports, they reached Base Camp north of the peak at 16,400 feet on March 18. Between 17,400 and 22,000 feet they apparently followed the eight-mile-long Yebokangal Glacier. (It is impossible to follow the route from the Chinese description.) From Base Camp to the summit was 22½ miles with Camp I at 17,400 feet, II (Advanced Base) at 19,000 feet, III at 20,650 feet, IV at 22,650 feet, the latter two in difficult terrain, V at 24,600 feet and VI at 25,250 feet. The summit assault party, originally of thirteen, left Base Camp on April 25 and reached Camp VI on May 1. Ten climbers, including the leader, were said to have reached the summit on May 2. A complete report by the deputy leader Chou Cheng appears in the Alpine Journal of November, 1964. There is no doubt that they reached high on the mountain, as may be seen from their photographs, but some mountaineers have received the news of summit success with skepticism.

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