American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chile, Central Chile

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

Central Chile. The 1964 climbing season witnessed the conquest of most of the peaks over 13,000 feet that remained unclimbed, particularly in the Rancagua and Colchagua districts. The main expeditions in Central Chile were the following: by Club Mañke, which operated around the sources of the Cachapoal River, Rancagua area and climbed the following peaks: Torrecillas, 12,467 feet (January 17), Aguja Verde, Aguja Roja, Pilar Occidental (two ascents) and Aguja de Roca, all c. 12,800 feet (January 17-18); Corona del Diablo, 15,026 feet (January 18), Gran Torre del Cortaderal, 13,616 feet (January 1), Nevado Penitentes, 14,600 feet (January 2), Hermandad, 13,452 feet (February 2), Cola del Cisne, 14,239 feet (February 3), Nevado Cisne, 14,272 feet (February 3), and Aguja Roja again, new route, (February 2); afterwards the camp was transferred to the southern district of the sources of the Cachapoal and the following ascents were made, by members of the same club: Portillo, 16,339 feet, and Alto de los Arrieros, 16,404 feet on February 7, the latter being a second ascent. Also the 5th and 6th ascents of El Palomo, 15,912 feet were made, and then a third base camp was transferred to the area south of El Palomo, from which a number of unclimbed peaks were successfully attempted: Lágrimas, 13,484 feet (February 12), unnamed, 13,452 feet (no date given), Mesoncito, 12,959 feet, Colmillo, 13,124 feet, and Nevado Sierra Negra, 14,764 feet; the last three on February 12. Members of the universities’ mountain clubs made the following ascents: Mirador de la Torre de Flores, 15,912 feet by W. Espinoza and P. Durán, on December 20, 1963, who also traversed to another unclimbed peak, Punta Ventisquero, c. 15,100 feet the same day. Miguel Gómez led a group to the border peaks of the León Negro group and made the following climbs: Doris Sur, 17,061 feet, Expeditión, 16,733 feet, Don Juan, 16,800 feet, Benicadell, 16,909 feet and an unnamed peak, 16,568 feet, all first ascents and all in mid-February; they also climbed Central, 16,978 feet and Doris Norte, 17,093 feet, both third ascents. All these peaks of the León Negro group are located on the border of Argentina, or inside Argentinian territory. An expedition of the Club Andinista Internacional operated in the massif of Cerro Plomo, due east from Santiago, and climbed eight peaks; mention should be made of the climb of Punta Expe- dición, 16,240 feet by H. Oteíza, C. Julio and P. Castillo on February 20, a first ascent, and of Punta Verde, c. 16,400 feet, by H. Oteíza and C. Julio, on February 21, a new route from the west.

Gastón San Roman H., Federación de Andinismo de Chile

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