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South America, Chile, Fitzroy

FitzRoy. (The following details have just been received as the Journal goes to press.) We established Base Camp on January 8 and on the 12th climbed Guillaumet, an interesting rock climb with much Class VI climbing and a bivouac. On the 14th Comesana and I had a hearty tea and set out for the base of the huge couloir, where we slept. On the 15th we climbed under a cloudy sky and bivouacked below the "great block.” The crux was in the middle of the couloir below the "great block,” where there were six or seven rope-lengths of extreme difficulty. On the 16th we had perfect weather and reached the summit at eight p.m. We began the descent but could not reach the bivouac. The 17th was stormy and rainy with deceptive vision. We reached Base Camp at ten p.m., wet and happy.

JOSÉ Luis Fonrouge, Club Andino Bartloche