American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chile, Fitzroy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

FitzRoy. FitzRoy (11,072 feet) has finally been climbed for the second time and by a new route! (First ascent on February 2, 1952 by Magnone and Terray. — Editor.) The summit was reached on January 16, 1965 by José Luis Fonrouge and Jorge Comesaña after a very short approach march without intermediate camps. The route was the great couloir tried by the climbers from Bariloche in 1962. They were three days on the wall, ascending and descending. Preceding the successful climb, there was a rather quixotic attempt made by two of my friends from Bariloche: Otto Weisskopf and Carlos Bottazzi, who had both been members of the winter reconnaissance in 1962. Knowing of Fonrouge-Comesaña plans, they secretly organized a December attempt. Not having made any other ascents yet this season, the attempt was doomed to failure and got only as high as the winter 1962 attempt, despite favorable conditions. This year there is an enormous amount of activity in the range. Fonrouge and Comesaña also climbed the nearby Aguja Guillaumet (8507 feet), a massive granite tower 11/4 miles northeast of FitzRoy. Our two members from Buenos Aires (presumably also Fonrouge and Comesaña—Editor.) unsuccessfully attempted to make the second ascent of Poincenot. Another group of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires failed to climb the Cerro Marconi. Peterek’s expedition is still in the field attempting to repeat the French route on FitzRoy. After a very difficult time getting along the shores of Lago San Martin, the Skvarca brothers were finally able on January 13 to enter the Mellizos region, where they are now climbing.

Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche

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