American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Tsacra Grande, Cordillera Huayhuash

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

Tsacra Grande, Cordillera Huayhuash. An Italian expedition from Bergamo, led by Annibale Bonicelli, climbed a number of peaks in the Huayhuash. Leaving Chiquián on July 20 they headed into the mountains and set up Base Camp in the Quebrada Seria at 15,000 feet on July 25. They placed Camp I at 16,000 feet on the slopes of Tsacra Grande and Camp II at 17,700 feet in the col at the foot of the east ridge. From there the mixed rock and ice were of the greatest difficulty and during the first three days of July the route was carefully prepared and fixed with ropes. On July 4 Santino and Nino Calegari, Dr. Piero Nava and Piero Bergamelli climbed to the summit (18,944 feet). The next day Bonicelli, Mario Curnis and Carlo Nembrini repeated the ascent. The Italians claim that this was a first ascent. On June 30, 1954 the Austrians Siegfried Aeberli, Waldemar Gruber, Heinrich Klier and Wastl Mariner climbed very close to the summit but did not stand on the highest point because of dangerous cornices. The Austrians considered this a first ascent, and clearly say so on page 175 of The Mountain World 1955. The Italians then turned their attention to lesser peaks of the range. On July 9 both Calegaris, Bergamelli, Curnis and Nembrini climbed the east face of the highest of the Ancocancha peaks (5647 meters or 18,527 feet), which they called Ancocancha Central. They found the tracks of two Germans, who had climbed the mountains a few days before. They were followed two weeks later by Argentines, who climbed it from the west and called it Ancocancha Norte. They then turned to the Rosario peaks, which lie on the eastern side of the Quebrada Seria. On July 11 Santino Calegari and Curnis climbed Rosario Norte (5596 meters or 18,360 feet) and the next day all but Bonicelli climbed the main peak (5606 meters or 18,393 feet). On July 14 Santino Calegari and Nembrini climbed Seria (5543 meters or 18,186 feet) and the peak just south of it. These lie at the head of the Quebrada Seria and south of Nevado Rasac. On the same day Nino Calegari and Curnis climbed Tsacra Chico Oeste (5477 meters or 17,969 feet). Two days later both Calegaris, Curnis and Nembrini climbed Bayo Central (5487 meters or 18,002 feet) and Bayo Norte (5325 meters or 17,470 feet), the latter being a second ascent. These two peaks lie west of the southern end of the Quebrada Seria.

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