AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Peru, Attempt on Siluá Chico, Cordillera Huayhuash and Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca

Attempt on Siulá Chico, Cordillera Huayhuash and Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. A German expedition from Munich was led by Horst Wels and consisted of Dr. Rudl Fürst, Hubert Schmidbauer, Helmut Salger, Werner Lindauer and Ulla Staudacher. In the mountains they were joined by the Argentine Jose Fonrouge, who had been there with an Argentine expedition. Early in June they set up their Base Camp on the shore of Carhuakocha at 13,000 feet. From a high camp Salger and Lindauer made the first ascent of Nevado Bavaria (18,375 feet). Lindauer, Fürst and Fonrouge made the third ascent of Jirishanca Chico (18,045 feet). They attempted to climb Siulá Chico (20,555 feet), perhaps the highest unclimbed summit in Peru. The route lay apparently over the summit of Siulá (20,841 feet). With two bivouacs, all the Germans climbed most of the 3000-foot-high northeast face, but conditions were so unfavorable that they turned back 350 feet below the summit of Siulá. A fire destroyed most of their food supplies and so they were forced to leave the Huayhuash. After restocking, they entered the Cordillera Blanca where they made a number of ascents, none of them new: Ishinca (18,373 feet) by the west face by Lindauer, Salger, Fonrouge, Schmidbauer and Staudacher; Ishinca Chico (17,881 feet) by the same climbers; and Ranrapalca (20,217 feet) via the north face by Lindauer, Salger and Fonrouge.