La Reina, Cordillera de Santa Marta. With a hired Colombian boy I walked into the Santa Marta massif from Atanquez up the Donachui River. Having lost my ice axe and crampons on the way to Colombia, I had to pick a rock route, the steep southeast ridge of Pico La Reina (18,160 feet). The altitude was too much for my companion, who gave up at 16,000 feet. I made the ascent on December 8, following the shattered granite ridge to the hanging glacier on the east face; I climbed this to reach the upper mixed rock and snow portion of the ridge. I believe this was the seventh ascent of the peak, but the first one by this route.

ViN Hoeman, Mountaineering Club of Alaska