American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Coast Range, Serra 5

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

Serra 5. On June 15 Dick Culbert and Glenn Woodsworth were landed by plane on the Scimitar Glacier near the mouth of Chaos Glacier. They packed down the Scimitar and skirted an icefall on the Radiant Glacier to camp at 6600 feet. From there they climbed the next day up a 3000-foot icefall and then up the headwall of the Radiant to the col between Serra 5 and Asperity. Already eleven hours out of camp, they reached the rock when a snowstorm broke. They climbed rock plastered with snow to reach the 11,800-foot summit at eight p. m. After a bivouac in the col, they returned with difficulty to camp in heavy snowfall.

Squamish Chief, Lower Angel’s Crest. Fred Beckey and I completed a new route on the largely unexplored 2000-foot wall of the Squamish Chief at the end of May. The Lower Angel’s Crest took 5 bolts and 40 pitons and was class 5.7 and A3. We ascended the lower half of the Angel’s Crest, the top half of which Fred Beckey and party had climbed in 1962 (A.A.J., 1963, 13:2, p. 498). They climbed 1000 feet up an easy gully and traversed onto the great shelf, which cuts the Angel’s Crest into two obviously separate parts, and ascended from there. We climbed the lower half. Each of the two halves is a complete route in itself and will probably always be done on separate occasions. 1st lead: Ascend an open book for 50 feet from lowest point of ridge up high-angle brush to a bushy shelf. 2nd lead: Traverse left to the ridge’s edge. Continue around an obvious corner on a narrow ledge and up a diagonal crack in a head- wall. 3rd lead: Climb on aid diagonally left in the only crack to the corner; turn corner and belay. (Bolt below corner.) 4th lead: Traverse horizontally 10 feet left partially on aid and climb leftward-slanting crack (2 bolts). At the top of the crack, traverse right 15 feet to belay. 5th lead: Traverse 10 feet and turn corner to the right. Climb up and traverse back over belayer on roomy shelf. Traverse right on grassy ledges and ascend layback flake to rotten, bushy gully (big tree). Climb to highest belay tree. 6th lead: Starting from ridge crest at vertical section, traverse right 10 feet, using horn to reach piton crack. Ascend crack to bolt; make awkward step right from high rung in stirrup on bolt. Climb 20 feet right to tree belay. 7th lead: Ascend grassy crack 5 feet left of belay tree to top of ridge. 8th lead: Scramble through brush to ledge and rappel chimney on the other side. Three rappels will reach descent gully.

Eric Bjornstad, Mountaineers

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