American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Chief's Head, Northwest Face, Glacier Gorge, Rocky Mountain National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

Chief s Head, Northeast Face, Glacier Gorge, Rocky Mountain National Park. Bob Bradley and I made the first ascent of this beautiful face in August, 1963, in part of two days. From the middle of the wall’s base we climbed a steep slab and belayed on a broken ledge. Difficult nailing took us to a a large open-book, which we nailed for a lead, taking the roof on the left. This put us on a large terrace where we bivouacked. Above we climbed a crack in a ramp and then up a steep slab to a second roof. A thin aid lead left of the roof took us to a large flake. A traverse to the right up a crack and then onto a slab carried us to easier terrain, which we ascended to the summit after 12 hours of difficult work. NCCS IV, F8, A7.

Layton Kor

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