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North America, United States, Wyoming, Devil's Tower, The Window

Devils Tower, The Window. In August, Pete Robinson, of Fort Collins, Colorado, joined me in an attempt to climb the "Window” of Devils Tower. This is a 300-foot high recess in the east face of the Tower. It had been attempted twice before. Rain fell all day, but did not hit us until we passed the ceilings forming the top of the recess. Passing these ceilings was the crux of the climb. The last pitch was dangerous because of poor piton protection and slick rock. (NCCS IV, F6, A4.) A few days later we put up a new free route about a dozen columns east of the Durrance route. We named this "Danse Macabre”. The hardest part is the first 30 feet, but it is strenuous for 75 feet, after which it becomes easier. (NCCS III, F10.) Complete descriptions for these climbs are available at the Park Service Headquarters.

Royal Robbins