American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Pronghorn, East Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

Pronghorn, East Face. Certainly among the outstanding faces in the Range are Pronghorn’s east and southeast faces. The latter, which rises in an almost straight swoop from a rockbound lake to the summit, is quite vertical. Kor and Beckstead went up two pitches and found the rock dangerously loose and devoid of the usual good crack systems. The following day, July 19, Dave and I climbed directly to the summit on the right extremity of this wall, which could be called the east face. We climbed a series of steep buttressed ribs just left of a gigantic couloir which splits into the face. Here we had difficulty at times from loose rock, and found particular trouble overcoming a chockstoned chimney full of loose sand and mud from melting snow. Higher, the rock improved and we had some delightful climbing; we used about 14 pitons on the ascent. We began the ascent from a camp near Middle Fork Lake, and descended directly to Rainbow Lake.

Fred Beckey

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