American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Fremont Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

Fremont Peak. On September 15 Gerry Holdsworth and I ascended the west face of Fremont, from the upper Titcomb Lakes, reaching the summit at 9:30 A. m. via a route which was cairned part of the way. We then followed the north ridge of Fremont until we reached a point beyond which progress was blocked by a wide gap. We worked back a hundred feet or so and descended an ice gully leading northeast to the Upper Fremont Glacier. The ice gully averaged about 45°, so we worked down the gully close to the rock on its left wall for two pitches and then worked over the bergschrund, which was deep and overhanging 10 feet in places. After crossing several crevasses, we reached the level section of the glacier and then paralleled the pinnacled ridge between Fremont and Sacagawea. We then ascended Sacagawea via its south ridge and east spur.

Edward Vaill, University of Chicago Mountaineering Club

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