American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Black Mountain, West Summit, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1965

Buck Mountain, West Summit, South Face. This major face, separated from the main south face of Buck by a large couloir, was climbed on July 28 by Rick Medrick and Dean Moore. The route begins amid loose rock in the gully near the lower right edge of the face. After 120 feet along a diagonal ledge up to the left the party ascended a difficult F8 overhanging jam crack which is apparently the only break in the wall. The third lead past easy overhangs up and right took the climbers to the belay ledge at the beginning of the upper half of the face, which from this point appeared formidable. With good protection the next pitch proved easier than expected; first up and left for forty feet, then up past blocks for thirty feet, finishing by climbing up and right to a good ledge. The final two pitches pass an overhang directly before finally exiting to the right where a scramble leads to the west summit. Although the route does contain a considerable quantity of loose rock on the ledges, it is an interesting problem in route-finding.

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