AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, The Folly

The Folly. Just east of Rixon’s pinnacle is a huge 800-foot-high exfoliation flake separated only at the top. The first ascent of this "spire” was made in September by James Bridwell and myself in 10 hours of very strenuous climbing. The first 3 leads led to the top of a buttress; from here we traversed right 30 feet, nailed up the steep slabs, around a roof (right), then up an overhanging crack to a small ledge in a pocket. We then nailed 50 feet up a crack and pendulumed to the right into a smooth chimney. On the last two leads we ascended an extremely difficult crack to the top of the pinnacle. One bolt for protection and pitons up to 6 inches in width were used on the climb. (NCCS V, F9, A3)

Layton Kor