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North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Johannesberg, Northeast Face

Mount ]ohannesberg, Northeast Face. This face lies between the north- east-ridge route and the usual east-ridge route from the top of the famous 3000-foot Cascade-Johannesberg ice couloir, and was first completed August 29, 1963 by Jim Stuart, Dave Beckstead and me. At a level with the hanging glacier on the face, we left the ice couloir and crossed the glacier to our face route which soared upward for some 2500 feet. Several leads in a class 5 chute followed by several hundred feet of class 4 carried us upward onto the main portion of a great fan, from where a distinct ridge on the right brought us to a large platform at 7600 feet. About 200 feet higher we nailed in for a miserable bivouac, and the following morning completed the 400 feet to the summit over class 4 and 5 rock. The difficult and lengthy descent was made by way of the east ridge route to the Cascade-Jo col and a traverse to Cascade Pass via Gunsight Notch because of the unstable conditions in the ice couloir.

Don Gordon, unaffiliated