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North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Snow Creek Wall, New Routes

Snow Creek Wall, New Routes. The Galaxy Route located on the south half of the wall was completed September 14 by Bob Phelps and Pat Callis. The climb took 1½ days and involved 11 leads and 52 pitons, 9 for direct aid. This route lies between the Orbit and Outer Space routes but does not coincide with either of them. The Northern Dihedral Route is a continuous crack reaching straight for the 800-foot summit; it was climbed in late fall by Jim Stuart and Alex Bertulis. While trying to negotiate the overhang about 500 feet up, Jim and an equal sized granite flake pealed off and both went flying through space together. Suffering only minor bruises, the party surmounted the overhang and bivouacked for the night. Another 180 feet of aid climbing and then an easy scramble put them on the summit the following day. About 75 pitons were used. In May, the Spring Fever Route was climbed by Fred Beckey and Bill Marts. They describe this most northerly of the routes on the wall as "a delightful exercise in steep free climbing on excellent bubbly granite.” Aid was used in two spots.