Peak 10,105, Second Ascent. This important peak, (10,105 feet) rises immediately east of the Kahiltna Glacier and is the highest point south of Mount Hunter. Its impressive west ridge is obviously the safest route to the summit as the east and south faces are precipitous with both loose, shaly rock and dangerous, hanging ice. The badly crevassed north glacier, which feeds a branch of the Kahiltna, offers a good route to the upper west ridge. In mid-July Don Sheldon landed Bob Baker and me on the branch. We set off immediately for the peak. After getting past some interesting crevasse patterns and a sharp ice ridge, we pitched our tent at 8000 feet on the north face. But luck was not with us, as a snowstorm blew up and would not quit for two days. We retreated to Base Camp and almost left when Sheldon flew in, but he felt the improved weather would last and said he would pick us up in a day and a half. We set out again, this time without overnight gear, and in our old steps we were able to reach the summit ridge quickly by climbing through the night. The final swoop upwards of the peak, which steepened dramatically for about eight leads, was very spectacular. A great cornice kept us on the south side. Four pitches required much step-cutting and ice pitons for safety. Because the steep pitches were very exposed and almost all blue-ice traverses, the descent demanded equal protection. (For the account of the first ascent, see James Richardson’s above.—Editor.)

Fred Beckey