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Harvard Mountaineering Club

Harvard Mountaineering Club. The major event of 1963 for the Harvard Mountaineering Club was the Mount McKinley Wickersham Wall Expedition. A party of seven succeeded in establishing a direct new route up the 14,000-foot North Face, as described in an article in this Journal. The eighth biennial Climbing Camp was held in July and August in the Canadian Rockies near Jasper. Ted Carman, Robin Hartshorne, Steve Pomerance, Burt Redmayne, Paul Rich, John Young, Art Shurcliff, George Millikan, Lenny Clarke, and Bob Hoguet spent a week following the Athabaska and Chaba Rivers to the Chaba Icefield, from which they found their airdrop site unattainable. Undaunted, they returned to Jasper and set out for Coronet Creek, southeast of Maligne Lake, from which they climbed Mounts Brazeau, Monkhead, Mary Vaux, Valad, Henry MacLeod, Coronet, Charlton, Maligne, and Unwin over a two-week span. Two other North American expeditions during the summer included HMC alumni. The Mount St. Elias expedition, led by Boyd Everett and including Bob Page, was turned back within reach of the summit via the unclimbed north face by an earthquake, and time shortage defeated a renewed attempt by the north ridge. H. Adams Carter led a party among whose members were Harry Eldridge and Jim Sise on the successful second ascent of. Mount Foraker, by the previously unclimbed southeast ridge. In the Andes Leif Patterson was halted at 6300 meters on a new route on impressive Yerupajá, and dangerous conditions turned him back on Jirishanca Norte. On a smaller scale, Earle Whipple climbed in the Canadian Rockies and did Snowpatch and other summits in the Bugaboos. Bill Putnam also visited the Bugaboos, and Don Morton was with a Canadian Alpine Club party which made more than 20 first ascents on Baffin Island. Many HMC members climbed in the Tetons, and smaller numbers were active in Yosemite, the Sierra Nevada, Washington, and Colorado.

The school year saw the usual regular weekend activity, with ice climbing in Mount Washington’s Huntington Ravine during the winter, and spring and fall rock climbing in the Shawangunks and New Hampshire. The finishing touches were applied to the new club cabin below Huntington Ravine. The Red Cross first-aid course was held as usual, and the largest indication of interest ever from the freshman class promised a good group of potential mountaineers. Finally, the year was ended with a trip to the rugged Needle Mountains of southwestern Colorado over the Christmas holidays by undergraduates Matt Hale, Larry Muir, Burt Redmayne, Steve Pomerance, Don Jensen, and Dave Roberts, during which first winter ascents (some technical) of Arrow, Vestal, East and West Trinity, Storm King, and Peak 8 (probably a first ascent) were made.

David S. Roberts, Vice-President