American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Chitral

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Chitral. On September 4, the Austrians Markus Schmuck, Martin Gmachl and Walter Frisch, all of Salzburg, left Chitral for Base Camp at 13,600 feet on the Shayoz Glacier, which they established on September 12. They climbed Peak 22,490 feet, which lies between Koh-i-Tez and Urgend on the frontier with Afghanistan. Using no porters, in successive days they established camps at 17,000, 19,000 and 20,350 feet and on September 20 climbed to the summit. That same day they continued on to the c. 22,700-foot peak which lies about a kilometer to the west before descending to their Camp III.

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