American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Rosh Gol Valley, Chitral, Hindu Kush Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Rosh Gol Valley, Chitral, Hindu Kush Range. On July 7 Peter Far- quhar, my husband Gene and I with 12 members of the newly formed University of Peshawar Mountaineering Club, led by Mr. Farzand Ali Durrani, left the town of Chitral for the Rosh Gol valley, north of Tirich Mir on the Afghan border. At Reshun, 35 miles from Chitral, Gene and Peter made a reconnaissance of Buni Zom (21,494 feet) but found no feasible route for our party. We continued over Sarth An pass to Zan-drangram, where we hired 20 coolies and 5 high-altitude porters. Base Camp was established at 11,000 feet in the Rosh Gol, surrounded by peaks ranging from 19,000 to 24,000 feet. A route was found to Ishpandar Sor (19,977 feet) and a slightly lower neighboring peak. Peter, Gene, Farz and a student Ali Nawaz, and I established with high-altitude porters Camp I at 14,000 feet and Camp II at 16,500 feet. On July 17, a runner came up with a message that Professor Wali Mohammad Khan of Peshawar University had died falling from a cliff near Base Camp. The whole Pakistani group decided to return and because we depended on them for porter food, we reluctantly turned back. This valley has many interesting peaks; only Saraghrar (24,110 feet) has been climbed. It is an ideal area for a small expedition because of its accessibility and the fact that no government permission is required for mountaineering.

Elizabeth White

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