American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri II

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Dhaulagiri II. An Austrian expedition, led by Egbert Eidher, took over a month traveling from Butwal to establish Base Camp near Mukut on April 20. During reconnaissance north and west of Dhaulagiri II (25,429 feet), the leader climbed an 18,000-foot peak north of their objective. Although they were discouraged by the looks of the Chorten route attempted by the Japanese in 1959 (A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, pp. 67-8), Walter Gstrein and Ernst Kulhavy on a four-day reconnaissance discovered a way which gave access from Mukut across the ridge to a basin which lies at the foot of the upper slopes of the group. The climbers finally established Camp V at nearly 25,000 feet, but it was too difficult and far for them to climb to the summit from there in the unfavorable weather conditions; they withdrew to Base Camp on May 24. Other members of the party were Adolf Weissensteiner, Franz Huber, Dr. Klaus Kubiena, and the scientists Gerhard Fuchs and Hans Fischer.

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