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Asia, Nepal, Sharphu

Sharphu. This 23,622-foot peak, which lies just across the Tamur river, west of Kangchenjunga and northwest of the town of Kambachen, was climbed by the expedition led by Kenji Ishiwara, who could accompany the expedition only as far as Daran Bazar whence he had to return to Japan. Masando Hirano, deputy leader, led the caravan to Kambachen, where Base Camp was established at 13,600 feet on October 12. They reconnoitered for four days and found that the east face was very difficult and dangerous on account of 45° to 60° rock and icefalls. At last they found a feasible route to cross from the Nupchu Glacier to the Sharphu Glacier on the southern side of the peak. Camp I was established near the Nupchu Glacier at 16,400 feet on the eastern side of the 17,400-foot col, which they crossed to the Sharphu Glacier, which in turn they ascended to a small plateau at 19,350 feet. This was Camp II. They made their Camp III at 21,000 feet on the west ridge between the main summit and the peak just to the west of it. The summit was reached by three Japanese on October 22, by three Japanese and two Sherpas on the 23rd and by four Japanese and two Sherpas on the 25th. The Japanese, all of whom climbed to the summit, were Seiki Hirotani, Susumu Heki, Takao Ishinabe, Chutaro Takahashi, Chiharu Miyamoto, Takayuki Hirai, Yuzo Tatsumi, Yukihiko Mori and Dr. Takuji Kasamatsu. (The Japanese have calculated the altitude as 7200 meters and state that previously given altitudes were much too low. — Editor. )

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club