American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Twins

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Twins. An expedition of four from the Tokyo Agricultural University, led by Ken Miyazawa, attempted the Twins (24,117 feet) on the frontier between Nepal and Sikkim, just north of Kangchenjunga, which had been tried unsuccessfully before the war. On May 20 they established Camp IV on the western side of the mountain, but they had to give up their attempt less than 500 feet from the summit because of avalanche danger and bad weather. They also made the first ascent of the twin peaks of Tsisima (20,889 and 20,670 feet), which are on the east side of the Lhonak Glacier. These are noted as 6370 meters (20,889 feet) on the map Sikkim Himalaya (1:150,000) of the Swiss Foundation. They also unsuccessfully tried Cross Peak (21,359 feet) on the north ridge of the Twins. When the others left, Motohiko Kogo stayed on in the district.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Chib

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