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South America, Bolivia, Tiquimani

Tiquimani. A South African expedition, led by D. Robert Reinecke and composed of Harold Hill, Dr. Robin Sandell, Nicholas Coetzee, Donald Good, Malcolm Griffin and the Chilean Germán H. Mills, climbed in the Cordillera Real. Their first objective was Tiquimani (c. 18,400 feet), a peak with a long ridge running from northwest to southeast from which three summits rise. The northwest summit, some 35 feet lower than the main peak, was reached in 1947 (?) by a German living in Bolivia, Dr. W. Fritz. In the last week of April, 1963, a Bolivian expedition led by Major Acero claims to have climbed the central and highest peak, but the South Africans doubt the claim, feeling the route which they described is impracticable; they found no evidence of a previous ascent on top. The expedition left LaPaz on June 1, getting a 30-mile ride to Botijlaca on the Atlantic slope at 5000 feet. Llamas carried loads nearly to Base Camp at 13,600 feet. The climbers packed to their high camp at 16,000 feet below the north face of the peak. Coetzee remained in camp on July 8 when they made their summit bid. The whole group traversed the rock face eastward on ropes previously fixed. Mills and Hill climbed up a gully and then steep snow to reach the ridge and summit of the central peak. The other four climbed farther east from the end of the traverse and then up to reach the definitely unclimbed southeast summit. After Mills had to return to Chile, the others made the first ascent of Condoriri’s western summit (c. 18,300 feet). They approached the peak from the west but found no route from their high camp at 14,800 feet. Therefore Griffin and Coetzee crossed to the back side, ascended to the col between the west and main peaks of Condoriri, climbed mixed snow and rock then along a knife-edged corniced ridge to the summit. That same day Reinecke and Hill climbed four l6,000ers, which they called Condoriri Chico, Campanilla, La Ola, and Teta, while Good and Sandell ascended Titicaca (16,300 feet); all were first ascents. Two days later Good and Griffin made the second ascent of Fabulosa. Griffin returned alone in July to climb the northwest (Dr. Fritz’s) summit of Tiquimani.

Cordillera Real. The Bolivian Andes Expedition of the Kobe University Alpine Club consisted of Kenji Kanai, leader, Toshiyuki Kawaguchi, Atsundo Yamanoucho, Ichigi Mizuguchi and Masao Natsuhara. Also associated with us were members of the Club Andino Boliviano, Alfredo Martinez, Noel Castillo, and for Illimani only, Pedro Tichauer. We left La Paz on July 6 by truck and traveled via Sorata to Ancoma. On horseback and with llamas we continued on to Base Camp at Cuevas Calientes at the foot of the Pico del Norte, on the east of the peaks. We tried to make the third ascent of Illampu but failed owing to poor choice of route. On July 22 Mizuguchi, Natsuhara and Martínez climbed an unnamed peak (18,300 feet) northwest of Illampu. On July 29 Yamanouchi, Natsuhara and Castillo ascended another unnamed peak (18,400 feet), locally called "Ancoma de Cooco” by some people of Ancoma village, located north of Pico del Norte. We set up our second Base Camp on August 9 at Peñón Malquilili (14,500 feet) at the foot of Illimani. This was a six-hour drive from La Paz. On August 14, Kawaguchi, Mizuguchi, Martínez and Tichauer ascended Illimani’s south peak (21,201 feet), as did Yamanouchi and Castillo on August 15 and Kanai and Natsuhara on August 17. Yamanouchi ascended the central peak on August 17.

Kenji Kanai, Kobe University Alpine Club