American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Luyacpani, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Luyacpani, Cordillera Blanca. The Harvard students, John Terborgh and Jared Diamond, with the Peruvian porter Augusto Jamanca, on July 9 made the first ascent of Luyacpani (18,045 feet). This mountain, which they approached from the Quebrada Queshque, is the first snow-capped peak north of Pongos Sur. They also made what may have been first ascents of peaks in the Cordillera Negra above Yungay: Chonta (15,870 feet) on June 30 and Chacchapunta (16,404 feet) on July 1. On July 17 Terborgh and Jamanca climbed Copa (20,303 feet) by the standard route.

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