American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Eisenhower, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Mount Eisenhower, South Face. The eastern corner of the broad south face of Mount Eisenhower, adjacent to the Tower, had been climbed previously; a more direct south face route obviously lay up the central buttress. Steve Marts and I ascended this buttress on June 29, keeping well near its eastern corner. Unfortunately, except for the last three leads, the rock was loose, and the climb could hardly be called enjoyable. The angle is high, but holds always appeared, though it was necessary to do some route finding. A few pitons were used for protection but usually cracks were missing. We climbed some of the harder sections unroped because of the lack of means to protect them.

Fred Beckey

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