American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Bennington, North Face, Ramparts

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Mount Bennington, North Face, Ramparts. Among the many spectacular high mountain walls in the magnificent Ramparts is the northern face of Mount Bennington, 10,750 feet, the third highest peak in this area. Henry Mather and I spent several days near Amethyst Lake with the hope of new climbs, but wet weather limited us to this one. On the day of the ascent, August 18, the weather was excellent and cool enough to keep ice from melting and loosening rock debris on ledges. Enjoyable and sometimes difficult glacier work took us to the base of the final pyramidal summit rock wall, where crossing a double bergschrund and some ice labyrinths provided more steep and exciting ice climbing. The 1500-foot- high wall was all very good quartzite, which we climbed in 17 leads. Pitons were used only for belays with the exception of two pitches that required additional safety pitons. The exposure, high angle and alpine nature of this face make it a real classic, we feel.

Fred Beckey

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