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North America, United States, Colorado, Ship's Prow

Ship’s Prow. Ship’s Prow, directly southwest of Chasm Lake under Longs Peak, now provides an increasing variety of shorter and off-day climbs. On July 6 Bob Boucher and I made the first ascent of the Portal, a route of sustained difficulty that follows the very prominent dihedral to the right of the Stromboli route. We followed the broken first Stromboli pitch until we could traverse right into the dihedral, which we ascended for two extremely steep pitches until we climbed into a large cave inside the mountain. We left the cave via a suitably wild pitch and found ourselves on the top. A few pitons for direct aid were required. On July 14 James Burbank and I did the first ascent of Nexus Corner, the first dihedral left of Stromboli. We climbed to the base of the dihedral on an easy chimney system around the east corner of Ship’s Prow. The final dihedral provided a fairly difficult finish, superior in every respect to the Stromboli Chimney. Some direct aid is required.

Stanley Shepard, Colorado Mountain Club