American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Apache Thumb

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Apache Thumb. After failing twice because of spring storms, on June 22 Bob Sandefur and I did the first ascent of the west pillar of Apache Thumb, west of Brainerd Lake above Ward. The pillar supports the western of the two summits. Seizing a moment of clear weather, we started our climb about noon after packing in during the morning and pushed our route through that afternoon and evening. Our line ascended the right edge of the pillar, first up a short overhang, then a squeeze chimney, some direct-aid dihedrals, a traverse left to the edge and finally up easier dihedrals to the summit. We descended at night by rappelling and climbing to the northwest. Several other beautiful climbs, all fairly short, remain on Apache Thumb.

Stanley Shepard, Colorado Mountain Club

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