Longs Peak, The Diamond. In August, 1960, two Californians, Bob Kamps and Dave Rearick, made the first ascent of the Diamond (A.A.J., 1961, 12:2, pp. 297-301.) Their route goes straight up the center of the 1000-foot face. Two years later Layton Kor and Charles Roskosz, both of Colorado, completed a new route, “The Yellow Wall”, about 100 yards left of the Kamps-Rearick route. Though on less steep and better rock, the Yellow Wall is more circuitous and has a harder aid pitch. On July 13, after making the second ascent of the original route, Kor and I established a new one, “The Jack of Diamonds”. The “Jack” stands just right of the Kamps-Rearick, and like that route, has a rotten section which overhangs for 400 feet. Although the nailing is slightly easier on the Jack, the free climbing is more difficult than either of the other two routes. The night before the ascent, we bivouacked on Broadway, a huge ledge at the base of the Diamond. Kor slept placidly, but next day all his famous energy and drive became focused upon the problem of getting up this new route. The day dawned with the sun shining warmly through a clear blue sky, but by noon clouds had gathered and a strong wind numbed our fingers. The weather worsened as we climbed higher, and in the afternoon snow flurries swirled around us. Nearing the top, we fought an insidious exhaustion caused by altitude, cold, and our daylong struggle. Racing against the setting sun to avoid a bad night in slings, Kor led the last pitch, a long, strenuous jam-crack. On my last reserves I struggled up this final pitch, topped the Diamond, and shook the hand of a great climber.

Statistics: NCCS V-9-A4, 161 pitons, 1 day. Detailed route description left at Long’s Peak Ranger Station.

Royal Robbins