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North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind Rivers, Pingora, West Face

Pingora, West Face. On July 21 Fred Beckey, Court Richards and I left camp at Lonesome Lake for the west face of Pingora. Just before reaching Cirque Lake, we turned north and ascended to the col between Tiger and Pingora. From here we climbed up and slightly left. The first lead was a combination of free and direct-aid climbing. The second went along a short ledge and then up an open chimney, enjoyable fifth class. The next two leads were easy fifth class, with anchors for belays. Just below the summit we went under a huge rock and then up a 15-foot narrow vertical chimney. The standard descent was made by rappelling the south face. We used 20 pitons, 8 for direct aid. Total climbing time up and down was 8 hours. (NCCS III, 8, A3.)

Richard F. Ream