American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, West Bell Tower

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

West Bell Tower. These towers of excellent granite are three miles up Bells Canyon near Salt Lake City. On September 29, Larry Evans, Dick Ream* and Fred Beckey started a route on the West Bell Tower. They climbed the first two leads, mostly direct aid, and left fixed ropes for another weekend. This completed the lower half of a crescent-shaped route. On October 12 Fred Beckey and I completed the upper portion. After prusiking up the ropes left two weeks before, we climbed a large open V, about 150 feet high. In its bottom part there was a good crack which could be nailed. The top of the V was capped by an overhang, which we nailed underneath, and then we traversed to the right into a shallow, rounded, 15-foot furrow, which was climbed fifth-class to a good belay spot at its top. The last lead was up another furrow and into an awkward chimney which ended at the summit. The total climb was five leads, much of it direct aid. It required 11 hours of roped climbing, 38 pitons and 4 bolts. (NCCS III, 7, A3.)

Richard F. Ream

*This is not the same person as the author, who is known as Rich Ream. — Editor.

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