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North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Brewer, Northeast Face

Mount Brewer, Northeast Face. Russell McLean and I made the first ascent of this face on September 11. The route starts in the first chimney to the right of the small overhangs on the rib leading directly up the face to the summit. We climbed about 200 feet up this chimney until it overhangs somewhat (loose rock). At the overhang we traversed right about 10 feet on small, exposed holds into the next chimney. We climbed to a chockstone which we passed on the left. Here the chimney opens. Keeping right, we ascended about 40 feet to some slabs and followed them for another 400 feet, where they became steeper. We then climbed up and right eventually reaching the crest to the right of the summit. A short scramble brought us to the top. We placed about 25 pitons for protection. The hardest lead was 5.7.

Kenneth Boche