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North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, East Buttress of Bridalveil Fall

East Buttress of Bridalveil Fall: On September 14, T. M. Herbert and I made the first ascent of a thin, esthetic buttress just east of Bridalveil Fall. The route consists of 5 pitches and took about 6½ hours. The first three pitches are direct aid and the last two are excellent free climbing. We placed 68 pitons and used a fifi hook once. No bongs were used. The route is as follows. Starting on the left side of the buttress, 30 feet above the toe, traverse right and nail to the second of 2 good ledges. Proceed up and left, enter a small trough, turn the corner left when the crack in the trough becomes bad, and nail straight up to a belay in slings. Higher, free climbing leads right and then more nailing brings one to 2 excellent ledges separated by a small buttress. Ascend gully above the ledge on left of small buttress to large ledge 130 feet up. Move left (delicate), then wander up the face to good ledge where the standard Bridalveil Fall Eastside route comes in from the right. If in doubt on this pitch, keep right, but climb the last 15 feet to belay ledge by a lay- back on left. Finally, ascend last pitch of “Eastside” route. NCCS IV-8-A3.

Royal Robbins