North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Rixon’s Pinnacle, Far West Face

Publication Year: 1964.

Rixon’s Pinnacle, Far West Face: In June, Dick McCracken and I discovered a new route to the top of Rixon’s Pinnacle. It lies to the left of the West Face so we named it the “Far West Face”. This makes 5 routes leading to the summit of the 400-foot column. The face contains fine and difficult free climbing and enjoyable direct aid, plus some interesting and unusual maneuvers. We placed 29 pitons and one bolt, completing the climb in 5 hours. The highlight was the last pitch, where the leader must make a vigorous pendulum, grab the edge of a very thin flake, climb to the top of the flake and then hand-traverse for 10 feet to step onto the summit. NCCS III-9-A2. Suggested bongware: 2-1½?; 1-2?; 1-2½?; 1-3?; and 1-3½?.

Royal Robbins