American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Oregon—Cascade Mountains, Stein's Pillar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Stein’s Pillar. The second ascent of Stein’s Pillar, a noted geologic landmark east of Prineville, Oregon, was made in late August by Steve Marts, Eric Bjornstad, Dave Beckstead, and me in a 1½-day siege. The 400-foot Pillar overhangs profusely on all sides, exposure is magnificent, and there is a pleasant if noisy background of pasture, farmland, and cows. The original ascent was made twelve years ago, in a project that took parts of three years and included the drilling of 110 immense bolt holes. To our annoyance, we discovered that much of this strenuous work was done in vain, since the bolts were mostly removed, and some of the holes damaged. We did the ascent partly on pitons, but mostly on pitons nested together in the bolt holes, we even sawed off some giant cotter keys and found them useful for direct aid. A few of the original bolts remain, but to avoid the risks we took, future parties will be wise to bring a stock of ?? expansion bolts, and short, stubby tapered ¾? angles. We placed new rappel bolts of our own.

Fred Beckey

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