American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Picket Range, a South to North Traverse

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Picket Range, a South to North Traverse. In late summer Half Zantop and I approached this magnificent area from the south via Goodell Creek and the ridge east of Terror Creek, and then from Terror Basin went high over the south ridge of Degenhardt Mountain and descended into the upper Crescent Creek Basin. Our ascent of Mount Terror was culminated by a first descent of its north face, and involved continuous rappelling down the fault chimney dividing the two summits. After dropping into the McMillan Creek Valley, we then ascended along the right side of McMillan Creek’s north headspring, crossed a small glacier at its head to reach a high notch on the ridge of an unnamed peak (7680 feet), and descended to Mount Fury’s south col. After climbing the east peak of Fury from the southeast glacier we headed for the Luna-Fury ridge, dropped into the Luna Creek Valley and crossed it to the Challenger Arm. Following a quick side trip to Mount Challenger we continued to Perfect Pass, Easy Ridge and its abandoned trail, and finally the maintained trail along the Chilliwack River to Hannegan Pass and down Ruth Creek to where a car was waiting. Total time for the traverse was ten days.

Alex Bertulis, unattached

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