American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Snow Creek Wall, New Routes

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Snow Creek Wall, New Routes. The Satellite Route on the southern section of the wall consists of eight major leads and was completed April 21 by Steve Marts and Fred Beckey. The central 300 feet ascends a very black area on small friction holds, all free climbing with piton protection except for one direct-aid move. The Umbrella Tree Route was prompted by a lonely, stunted fir, high on the middle slabby portion of the wall. Fred Beckey and Pat Callis approached it from the first two pitches of the Country Club Route and then went out on the almost vertical but bubbly granite of the new route. An unprotected and difficult Class 5 move over a major dropoff begins the first hard lead. Above the tree, the route follows a tricky, shallow chimney and continues to the top of the wall in three leads of more moderate Class 5 climbing. The Nailway Route climbed by Steve Marts, Jerry Feucht, Bob Phelps, and Dan Davis follows the prominent buttress on the right end of the wall and is actually the ascent of an overhanging open book directly behind Easter Tower. From just below and left of the upper notch of Easter Tower the route diagonals left behind layback flakes, and then traverses right on a good ledge system onto the face next to the open book. From here it ascends to a tree and continues up the open book until it is possible to climb the overhanging side of the book to the face beyond, and then on “chicken heads” to the top. Route is Class 5 and 6. The Grand Arch is prominent on the central-right portion of the wall where Steve Marts and Fred Beckey spent most of two days working a high-angle slab to its left, difficult Class 5, and then used direct aid under the increasingly overhanging arch. The last artificial pitch included a 35-foot pitoning problem, horizontally left, under the arch, and a fortunate solution to the 12-foot roof of the arch in the form of a thin crack that would just take pitons, and which luckily continued up the slab above the roof.

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