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North America, United States, Alaska, Peak 7640, Chugach Range

Peak 1640, Chugach Range. In the course of a traverse of the Western Chugach icecap from Eklutna to Girdwood, on August 20 my brother William and I made the first ascent of Peak 7640, for which we have proposed the name of “Bellicose Peak”. This is, I believe, the third highest peak in this region. Our route along the southwest ridge took some 12 hours up and back. Leaving the col at noon, we scrambled forth over alternately fairly good and quite loose rock. For the rest of the afternoon we worked between the ridge line and the south face until only a short series of gendarmes stood between us and the top. These we finished with an 80-foot rappel from some blocks onto the final col before we climbed scree to the top at six p.m. Our last three hours down the ridge were in the blackest night. Northern lights draped the sky and it was a beautiful sight.

John Bousman, Mountaineering Club of Alaska