American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Wedge Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Wedge Peak. My brother William, Phil Colbert and I arrived at McKinley Park and proceeded up the Muldrow Glacier that night nearly to the turn. For a few minutes we disputed with a grizzly bear the camp site on the fine meadow just short of the glacier that descends from Anderson Pass. The following day we struggled with endless moraine on the left side of the glacier — unpleasant by any definition — and finally set up camp in the shadow of Mount Mather. About noon on the 31st we finally turned up the Brooks Glacier, a rolling highway of ice leading us rapidly to 6000 feet. We continued up the East Brooks Glacier, which drops out of a bowl between Mather, Deception and Wedge peaks, to camp at 8000 feet. On September 1, in superb weather, we walked nearly to the head of the glacier and turned up a gully on the east face of Wedge which eventually brought us to the very pointed south ridge. Two short leads on this finished the real climbing, leaving us an easy walk along the considerably wider summit ridge to the top (10,239 feet). On our return, it took us a day from our high camp to Oastler Pass and another out across the McKinley River to the road; this route would be the best route into the region. The weather was fine for all six days — my pessimistic prophecies to the contrary — with excellent snow conditions and no real difficulties.

John Bousman, Mountaineering Club of Alaska

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.