Asia, U.S.S.R., British Soviet Pamirs Expedition
British Soviet Pamirs Expedition. The British members of our party were Sir John Hunt, leader; Dr. Malcolm Slesser, deputy leader; George Lowe, Wilfrid Noyce, Ralph Jones, Derek Bull, Ian McNaught-Davis, Ted Wrangham, Dr. Graeme Nicol, Joe Brown, Ken Bryan and Robin Smith. The Russian climbers were Anatoli Ovchinnikov, leader; Eugene Gippen- reiter, Sevastianov, Shalaev, Malakov and Alkhutov. Our operations were based on the Garmo, Vavivola and Belaev glaciers and our climbs were (1) Pic Garmo (21,830 feet) by Smith, Noyce, Ovchinnikov and Sevastianov on July 24 by the west ridge. Wrangham and Bull reached approximately 20,000 feet on the west ridge before having to turn back. Noyce and Smith were killed on the way down; (2) Pic Patriot (20,600 feet) on which McNaught-Davis, Slesser, Brown and Bryan reached the top camp at approximately 19,000 feet, from which two Russians, Malakhov and Alkhutov, went on to the summit on July 25. This was a new ascent on the west ridge; (3) Pic Concord (18,878 feet), the first ascent of which was made on July 21 by Hunt, Shalaev, Jones, Nicol and Gippenreiter. The climb was made by the west ridge. The name awaits approval by the Mountaineering Federation of the U.S.S.R. ; and (4) Pic Communism (24,495 feet) by Ovchinnikov, Slesser, Brown, McNaught-Davis, Nicol, Malakov, Alkhutov and Gippenreiter on the south face and east ridge. (This was previously known as Pic Stalin.—Editor.)
John Hunt